Wait—is there really a “best” way to install LVT?
If you’ve spent any time on flooring forums or talking to installers, you’ve probably heard the usual debates: glue-down vs. loose-lay, click-lock vs. glue-down, and the eternal question of what to put under it. The short answer? It depends on your situation. After writing up project specs for nearly a thousand orders (and making a few costly mistakes along the way), I’ve learned that the “best” method is the one that fits your subfloor, the room’s use case, and your install team’s comfort level.
So, let’s break it down into three common scenarios. I’ll walk you through what I’ve seen work (and not work), based on real projects and avoidable screw-ups.
The subfloor won’t cooperate—the unsung killer of LVT shoots
Scenario A: Concrete slab with moisture issues
When I started in the industry back in 2018, we had this huge project where the spec called for a standard glue-down LVT over a slab that we thought was dry. Two weeks after install, there was buckling at the seams and adhesive failure at the edges. We had to pull up close to 1,200 sq. ft. of Van Gogh planks—about $4,500 worth of material—and re-prep from scratch.
Lesson learned: if the slab is prone to moisture (like in basements or on-grade slabs), a loose-lay LVT (like Karndean’s Looselay) or a click-lock system is often a smarter choice. You don’t need adhesive that can weaken with moisture. For Karndean, the Looselay range has a fiberglass-reinforced core and doesn’t bond directly to the slab, so minor moisture or surface imperfections are less catastrophic.
Note to self: always, always do a calcium chloride moisture test before specifying glue-down. A $50 test kit can save a $5,000 redo.
Scenario B: Old, uneven, or fragile subfloors (like a wood subfloor that moves)
In another project from last year—an older house with a creaky wood subfloor—the client originally wanted a tight, glue-down installation for their Korlok click range. My mistake was not accounting for the fact that wood subfloors can shift seasonally. After one particularly humid summer, we got a complaint of plank separation near the doorways. That wasn’t really the glue’s fault; it was the subfloor expansion.
If you’ve got a wood subfloor that’s not perfectly stable (or if you’re dealing with radiant heating below), a floating floor system with an underlayment (like the Karndean Korlok click-lock) is usually safer. It allows for expansion and contraction without putting stress on the locking mechanism. Some people think floating floors feel less premium, but honestly, a well-installed floating LVT feels great and doesn’t transfer subfloor movement to the surface.
What about the room use? Guest room vs. kitchen vs. commercial space
Scenario C: Commercial or high-traffic areas (like a small retail space or a cafe)
Here’s a counter-intuitive take: for heavy commercial foot traffic, I’ve actually started recommending glue-down LVT over loose-lay (for most cases). Why? Because loose-lay LVT—while forgiving—can shift under rolling loads like a heavy cart or a loaded hand truck. In 2023, we had a boutique hotel’s lobby where the loose-lay planks started to curl at the edges after a few months of heavy luggage traffic. We replaced them with glue-down Korlok, and that solved it.
But then, there’s a twist: a busy restaurant might still benefit from looselay because it allows for easier plank replacement if something spills under a heavy table. It’s case-by-case. The point is, “high traffic” doesn’t automatically mean “glue-down only.” You have to think about the type of traffic.
Scenario D: Home office or bedroom (low/medium traffic, controlled environment)
For a quiet at-home space like a study or guest room, the difference between glue-down, loose-lay, and click-lock is mostly a matter of preference and subfloor condition. If you have a perfectly smooth, dry subfloor, any method works fine. If you like the idea of replacing a single plank down the line, go with floating (click-lock or loose-lay). If you want the thinnest possible floor with the lowest transition height to an adjacent room, glue-down might be your thing (think about a transition from a tile to LVT—a thin glue-down plank creates less of a trip hazard).
So, how do you know which scenario you fit into?
That’s the million-dollar question. There’s no checklist that covers every variable, but here’s a way to think about it based on my own experience (and yes, my mistakes):
- If your subfloor is new, dry, and dead-level (or you’re a perfectionist): Glue-down LVT gives you the best long-term stability, especially for large formats like Art Select planks in a commercial space.
- If your subfloor is borderline or you’re installing over radiant heating: Go with a click-lock or loose‑lay. The added flexibility saves you from potential adhesive failure down the line. Karndean’s Looselay is designed for exactly this kind of situation—no glue needed, but still stays put under normal foot traffic.
- If you’re renovating an old house where perfection is a dream: Floating LVT (click-lock) is your best friend. It hides a lot of subfloor imperfections. Just use the recommended underlayment, and don’t cheap out on it.
- If you’re a new installer or doing your first project: I’d actually recommend loose-lay. It’s forgiving, easier to cut, and you don’t have to worry about adhesive chemistry. Just follow the manufacturer’s layout instructions. (Caveat: if the room is very humid or gets direct sunlight, choose a product rated for UV stability—most LVT is fine, but check).
Now, I’m not saying one method is universally better. But I am saying that pretending there’s a one-size-fits-all answer is a good way to waste money. This was accurate as of mid-2024. The flooring market moves fast—especially with new products like rigid core vs. flexible LVT—so verify current manufacturer specs before committing.
One last thing: the vendor who tells you “this is the best method for everyone” probably hasn’t made enough mistakes. The ones who tell you “it depends” are usually the ones who’ve seen both the success and the failure. I’d trust that second group.
